Grüner Weiss

Grüner Veltliner and Gelber Muskateller from a certified sustainable vineyard in Lower Austria, the Baumgartner site, fermented as real wine before anything is taken out of it. Four hours of skin contact and stainless steel aging give it texture and a floral lift without oak, and it stays bright, dry and mineral with lemony fruit running through. The New York Times picked it for Front Burner and called it food friendly, which is the right frame. This is a bottle for a table, not a novelty. Studio Null removes the alcohol by vacuum distillation, drawing it off under pressure at low temperature so the aromatics survive, taking a normal 12 to 14% wine down to roughly 0.3%. A glass runs about 20 calories against the 125 or so in the full strength version, with around 3g of sugar added back to balance the acidity once the alcohol is gone. Serve it cold.