Chardonnay

Chardonnay is the grape that makes this category worth taking seriously, because it carries texture as well as aroma, and texture is usually the first casualty when the alcohol comes out. Torres works it the standard Natureo way. Full fermentation first, then clarification and filtration, then a physical dealcoholization that lands the bottle at 0.0%. What comes out is smooth and silky, fuller in the mouth than the Muscat, with citrus running through the aromatics. Serve it at 12 degrees rather than fridge cold, which gives the mid palate room to show itself. Familia Torres suggests pasta, chicken, paella and fish. Paella is the interesting test of the four, since a rice dish that big will flatten a thin wine on contact. Torres has been refining this process in Penedès since 2008, and the practice shows in a glass like this one.