Sauvignon Gris is the grape here, which is worth noting because it is an unusual pick. It is a pink-skinned mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, rarer than its parent and a little rounder and more stone-fruited, and it gives this brut more weight than the neutral base most non-alcoholic sparklers get built on. The wine is made properly first at a fourth-generation family winery in the South of France that has been working on non-alcoholic wine for more than twenty years. Only after it is finished does reverse osmosis pull the alcohol out at low temperature, which is what keeps the aromatics intact. Brilliant yellow in the glass with an elegant bead. Lemon and honeysuckle on the nose, citrus and stone fruit on the palate, crisp and refreshing through the finish. Under 0.5% ABV at 25 calories per 5oz. Pour it cold as a genuine Champagne stand-in for a toast, or use it as the base of a spritz.
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