Golden Hour

Lemon and bergamot carry the top of this one, bright and a little bracing, with earthy hops, rosemary and bay leaf underneath keeping it from tipping into lemonade. The bay leaf is what makes it read as an aperitif rather than a soft drink, and it is the detail most fruit-forward alternatives skip. De Soi was co-founded by Katy Perry and Morgan McLachlan, and the whole range is non-alcoholic botanical aperitifs with adaptogens folded in. Here that means reishi mushroom, lion's mane and L-theanine. Treat it the way you would treat a spritz. Chill it hard, pour it over ice in a wine glass, and add a lemon twist if there is one around. It does its best work before dinner, or as the thing you hand someone who wants a real glass in their hand at a party.