MURI x The Four Horsemen

A collaboration between Muri and The Four Horsemen, the New York restaurant that built its reputation on its wine list. The brief was a bottle that could hold a place at that kind of table, and what came back leans savoury rather than sweet. Sour cherry supplies the fruit and the sharpness. Ice clarified tomato brings umami and a clean, silky body, and green peppercorn adds the bite that stops the whole thing going soft. It reads as a still red, dry and acidic, with a genuine bitter edge running underneath. That structure is what lets it work with food instead of merely sitting beside it. Pour it with roasted red meat, barbecue or a long cooked ragù. The Times called it the sip of the season, and Danish wine writer René Langdahl settled on refreshing and addictive, which is a fair description of something this savoury.